Reference

INCI Ingredient Guide

Name: INCI Ingredient Guide
Creator: Cosmedoe

Common cosmetic INCI names — with their functions and scientific safety notes. Based on EU Cosmetics Regulation, SCCS opinions, and EFSA assessments.

Safe Caution warranted Avoid recommended

Moisturizers & Barrier Ingredients

Maintain skin hydration and support barrier function.

INCI Name	Common Name	Function	Note	Status
Glycerin	Glycerol	Humectant	Safest and most effective humectant; suitable for all skin types	Safe
Sodium Hyaluronate	Sodium Hyaluronate	Humectant	Salt form of hyaluronic acid; better skin penetration	Safe
Hyaluronic Acid	Hyaluronic Acid	Humectant	High MW stays at surface; effective moisture binding	Safe
Panthenol	Pro-Vitamin B5	Humectant / Soothing	Anti-inflammatory; barrier repair; very well tolerated	Safe
Urea	Urea	Humectant / Keratolytic	5–10% humectant; 20%+ keratolytic; ideal for dry skin	Safe
Squalane	Squalane	Emollient	From olive or sugarcane; lightweight; non-comedogenic	Safe
Dimethicone	Dimethicone	Emollient / Occlusive	Silicone; smoothing and moisture-sealing; safe	Safe
Petrolatum	Petroleum Jelly	Occlusive	Excellent barrier; proven non-comedogenic; very safe	Safe
Cetyl Alcohol	Cetyl Alcohol	Emollient / Thickener	Fatty alcohol; not the irritating kind — don't confuse with ethanol	Safe
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Shea Butter	Emollient	Natural; rich in fatty acids; excellent for dry skin	Safe

Ingredients with clinical evidence for specific skin effects.

INCI Name	Common Name	Function	Note	Status
Retinol	Retinol	Anti-aging / Acne	Vitamin A; wrinkles and hyperpigmentation; avoid in pregnancy	Caution
Retinyl Palmitate	Retinyl Palmitate	Anti-aging (weak)	3 conversion steps to retinoic acid; very weak activity	Safe
Ascorbic Acid	Vitamin C	Antioxidant / Brightening	Most effective vitamin C form; sensitive to light and oxygen	Safe
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate	Stable Vitamin C	Antioxidant / Brightening	SAP: stable form; slower but won't oxidize in the bottle	Safe
Niacinamide	Niacinamide / Vitamin B3	Multi-benefit active	Pore appearance, brightening, barrier; excellent tolerability	Safe
Azelaic Acid	Azelaic Acid	Acne / Rosacea / PIH	From grains; anti-inflammatory; safe in pregnancy	Safe
Salicylic Acid	Salicylic Acid	BHA / Acne / Pores	Exfoliates inside pores; 2% OTC; higher concentrations cautious	Caution
Glycolic Acid	Glycolic Acid	AHA / Exfoliant	Smallest AHA molecule; deepest exfoliation; increases UV sensitivity	Caution
Lactic Acid	Lactic Acid	AHA / Exfoliant	Gentler than glycolic; also has humectant effect	Safe
Kojic Acid	Kojic Acid	Brightening	Tyrosinase inhibitor; 1–2% effective; some formulations irritating	Caution
Alpha-Arbutin	Alpha-Arbutin	Brightening	Safe tyrosinase inhibitor; for hyperpigmentation	Safe
Caffeine	Caffeine	Antioxidant / Undereye	Vasoconstrictor; undereye puffiness; antioxidant activity	Safe

Stabilize oil-water mixtures; enable cleansing.

INCI Name	Common Name	Function	Note	Status
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)	SLS	Surfactant / Lather	Strong foam; barrier disruptive; not recommended for sensitive skin	Caution
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)	SLES	Surfactant / Lather	Milder than SLS; common use; 1,4-dioxane contamination risk	Caution
Cocamidopropyl Betaine	Cocamidopropyl Betaine	Amphoteric Surfactant	Gentle; in baby products; well tolerated	Safe
Polysorbate 80	Polysorbate 80	Emulsifier	Common emulsifier; safe; rare allergic reactions reported	Safe
Lecithin	Lecithin	Emulsifier	From soy or sunflower; natural origin; safe	Safe

Prevent microbial growth and extend product shelf life.

INCI Name	Common Name	Function	Note	Status
Phenoxyethanol	Phenoxyethanol	Preservative	Most common alternative; 1% limit; caution in infant products	Caution
Ethylhexylglycerin	Ethylhexylglycerin	Preservative Booster	Commonly combined with phenoxyethanol; safe	Safe
Methylparaben	Methylparaben	Paraben Preservative	EU permitted; EDC debate ongoing; lowest potency paraben	Caution
Propylparaben	Propylparaben	Paraben Preservative	EU restricts in infant leave-on products; hormonal activity debated	Caution
Benzyl Alcohol	Benzyl Alcohol	Preservative / Solvent	Effective; on EU fragrance allergen list; caution for sensitive skin	Caution
Sodium Benzoate	Sodium Benzoate	Preservative	Requires low pH to be effective; generally safe	Safe
Dehydroacetic Acid	Dehydroacetic Acid	Preservative	Broad spectrum; well tolerated	Safe
DMDM Hydantoin	DMDM Hydantoin	Formaldehyde Releaser	Releases formaldehyde slowly; allergic contact dermatitis risk	Caution
Imidazolidinyl Urea	Imidazolidinyl Urea	Formaldehyde Releaser	Formaldehyde releaser; contact dermatitis risk	Caution

Provide scent; may contain EU-listed contact allergens.

INCI Name	Common Name	Function	Note	Status
Parfum / Fragrance	Perfume / Fragrance	Scent	Can hide dozens of chemicals; leading cause of cosmetic contact allergy	Caution
Linalool	Linalool	Fragrance Component	EU 26 fragrance allergens list; more allergenic when oxidized	Caution
Limonene	Limonene	Fragrance Component	EU listed allergen; citrus scent; oxidized form particularly sensitizing	Caution
Citronellol	Citronellol	Fragrance Component	EU listed allergen; rose and geranium scent	Caution
Geraniol	Geraniol	Fragrance Component	EU listed allergen; rose scent	Caution

Provide protection against UVA and UVB radiation.

INCI Name	Common Name	Function	Note	Status
Zinc Oxide	Zinc Oxide	Mineral UV Filter (Broad Spectrum)	Broad spectrum; photostable; ideal for sensitive skin and pregnancy	Safe
Titanium Dioxide	Titanium Dioxide	Mineral UV Filter (UVB+UVA-II)	Photostable; limited UVA-I coverage; banned in EU food, continues in cosmetics	Safe
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane	Avobenzone	Chemical UVA-I Filter	Only approved chemical UVA-I filter; needs photostabilizers	Safe
Octocrylene	Octocrylene	Chemical UVB+short UVA	Stabilizes avobenzone; can degrade to benzophenone over time	Caution
Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone)	Oxybenzone	Chemical UVB+UVA-II	Hormonal activity debate; coral reef concerns; banned in Hawaii	Caution
Homosalate	Homosalate	Chemical UVB	EU reduced permitted concentration; hormonal effect under study	Caution
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine	Tinosorb S	Broad Spectrum	EU and Asia approved; excellent photostability; not FDA approved	Safe

Proven harmful, EU-banned, or strongly contraindicated.

INCI Name	Common Name	Function	Note	Status
Hydroquinone	Hydroquinone	Brightening	Banned in EU cosmetics; carcinogen risk; prescription-only drug use	Avoid
Mercury / Mercurous Chloride	Mercury Compounds	Brightening (Illegal)	Globally banned; neurotoxic; avoid entirely	Avoid
Lead Acetate	Lead Acetate	Colorant (Illegal)	EU banned; neurotoxic; formerly in hair dyes	Avoid
Formaldehyde	Formaldehyde	Preservative (Illegal)	EU banned in cosmetics; IARC Group 1 carcinogen; releasers pose indirect risk	Avoid
Coal Tar	Coal Tar	Dandruff/Psoriasis (Limited)	EU restricted; IARC Group 1; still in some medicated shampoos	Avoid

Cosmedoe evaluates every INCI ingredient in any product you scan against EU Cosmetics Regulation and your personal profile.